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Jack Martin

Hair Color Expert based in the West Coast who specialises in silver hair. Among his clientele are celebrated actors and well-known figures.

Which bargain product do you swear by?

I swear by a microfibre towel, or even a smooth cotton shirt to remove moisture from your strands. Most people don’t realise how much damage a regular bath towel can do, notably with grey or color-processed hair. This minor adjustment can really lessen brittleness and splitting. Another inexpensive must-have is a wide-tooth comb, to use while conditioning. It safeguards your strands while removing knots and helps keep the health of the strands, especially after lightening.

What item or service justifies the extra cost?

A professional-grade heat styling tool – made with advanced materials, with precise heat settings. Silver and light-coloured hair can develop brassy tones or get damaged without the proper tool.

Which popular practice is a definite no-go?

Self-applied color lifting. Internet videos often simplify it, but the reality is it’s one of the biggest gambles you can do to your hair. I’ve witnessed clients severely damage their locks, experience breakage or end up with striped effects that are incredibly challenging to remedy. I also don’t recommend long-term smoothing services on bleached or silver hair. These formulations are often excessively strong for delicate locks and can cause chronic issues or discoloration.

What’s the most common mistake you see in your salon?

Individuals choosing unsuitable formulas for their specific hair needs. A number of people misuse toning shampoo until their lightened locks looks flat and dull. A few overdo on protein-rich treatments and end up with unmanageable, weak locks. A further common mistake is heat styling without protection. In cases where you employ hot tools or dryers without a heat protectant, – especially on pre-lightened hair – you’re going to see discoloration, dehydration and damage.

Which product, treatment or supplement would you recommend for hair loss?

Hair loss needs a multilayered approach. Topically, minoxidil is still one of the most effective treatments. My advice includes follicle treatments containing stimulants to enhance nutrient delivery and promote root strength. Using a scalp detox shampoo weekly helps remove residue and allows treatments to work more effectively. Oral aids like specialized formulas have also shown notable improvements. They enhance overall health for hair benefits by correcting endocrine issues, anxiety and nutritional deficiencies.

For those seeking higher-level solutions, blood-derived therapies – where your own platelet-rich plasma is injected into the scalp – can be successful. However, I consistently recommend consulting a skin or hair specialist initially. Hair loss is often tied to underlying health issues, and it’s important to determine the origin rather than chasing surface-level fixes.

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A Trichology Expert

Scalp and Hair Scientist and brand president of Philip Kingsley centers and lines targeting thinning.

How frequently do you schedule salon visits?

I schedule cuts every ten to twelve weeks, but will remove split ends personally bi-weekly to maintain tip integrity, and have highlights done every eight weeks.

Which bargain product do you swear by?

Toppik hair fibres are remarkably effective if you have thinning spots. They attach using static to your strands, and it comes in a variety of shades, making it almost invisible. I personally applied it after childbirth when I had a lot of hair fall – and also presently during some marked thinning after having a bad infection previously. As hair isn’t an essential tissue, it’s the first part of you to suffer when your diet is lacking, so I would also recommend a well-rounded, nutrient-rich diet.

Which product or treatment is worth splurging on?

If you have female pattern hair loss (FPHL), I’d say prescription hair-loss topicals. For excessive daily hair shedding, AKA telogen effluvium (TE), buying an over-the-counter product is fine, but for FPHL you really do need medicated treatment to see the optimal outcomes. In my opinion, minoxidil compounded with other hair-supportive actives – such as endocrine regulators, blockers and/or soothing agents – works best.

What should you always skip?

Rosemary oil for hair loss. It shows no real benefit. The whole thing stems from one small study done in 2015 that compared the effects of a low-dose minoxidil with rosemary oil. A 2% strength minoxidil isn’t enough to do much for genetic balding in men, so the study is basically saying they are equally minimal in effect.

Likewise, mega-doses of biotin. Few individuals have biotin insufficiency, so using it may not benefit your strands, and it can alter thyroid level measurements.

Which error is most frequent?

In my view, we should rename "hair washing" to "scalp cleaning" – because the primary purpose of washing is to rid your scalp of old oils, dead skin cells, sweat and environmental pollution. I see people avoiding shampooing as they think it’s damaging to their locks, when in fact the opposite is true – notably in cases of dandruff, which is intensified by sebum accumulation. When sebum remains on the skin, they deteriorate and lead to inflammation.

Regrettably, follicular health and strand desires can differ, so it’s a careful compromise. However, if you cleanse softly and treat damp strands kindly, it is unlikely to cause damage.

What solutions do you suggest for thinning?

For genetic thinning in women, start with minoxidil. It has the most robust evidence behind it and tends to be most effective combined with additional ingredients. Should you wish to enhance minoxidil's benefits, or you choose to avoid it or cannot tolerate it, you could try collagen induction therapy (with a specialist), and perhaps platelet-rich plasma or light treatments.

For TE, you need to do some detective work. Increased hair loss often stems from an underlying issue. In some instances, the trigger is short-term – such as illness, infection or high stress – and it will resolve on its own. In other cases, thyroid imbalances or vitamin/mineral deficiencies are the driving factor – the frequent culprits include iron stores, B12 and D insufficiency – and to {treat the hair loss you need to treat the cause|address shedding, target the underlying issue|combat thinning, focus